Anyone interested in surfing's political history - and the premise that it might just be an offshoot of American foreign policy with colonialism (the promulgation of the American Dream) at its heart - might like to check out Scott Laderman's Empire in Waves. I reviewed it recently in the Times Literary Supplement. It's well worth a read.
I was also responsible for last Monday's Times obituary on Ricky Grigg. For this, I'm indebted to Matt Warshaw and Tony Butt. Unfortunately, for reasons that always elude mere contributors like me, quotes by both Matt and Tony didn't appear in the final, printed version of the obit. Sorry about that guys. All I can do is commend Matt's amazing, comprehensive and authoritative encyclopedia, and Tony's recently reprinted (I think Amazon's publication date of 1905 is inaccurate) Surf Science. Ricky Grigg had a (small, I think) hand in the latter and it remains the definitive book on wave forecasting.
By way of further evidence that the impoverished art of surf writing is still alive, I've just spent an enjoyable two hours in the company of former Wavelength editor Steve Bough, who has a surf book up his sleeve. Steve is also part-owner of fine-smelling retro surf wax brand Waxzilla.
Meanwhile, injuries continue to prevent me from surfing but there aren't any waves to surf. I shall hope for a sea swim with Aerial Attack early this evening, during which I will again marvel on the extent to which wearing QPR's away kit contributed to Germany's thrashing of Brazil.