Congratulations to Welshman Elliot Dudley who last weekend became the British Longboarding Champion. In taking the title in clean 3ft surf at Godrevy Beach Dudley became the holder of three titles in one year. He already held the European and Welsh titles, and had this to say of his achievement: "The British title has eluded me for seven years and it means so much to me. It's amazing to have finally got there and my concentration now turns to defending my European title in France in a few weeks."
A surfer of Dudley's pedigree is not the kind who needs any instruction on surfing etiquette, but as summer kicks off it's evident that the same does not hold true of a lot of people now taking to the water. Here are a few suggestions on how to enhance your and others' surfing experience.
1. Don't drop in. Yes, everyone always puts this first in a list of surfing's (unwritten) rules but it's in pole position for good reason. The surfer up and riding, nearest the curl, has priority, and if you drop in on him or her you're messing up their ride. If you do drop in by accident (eg: you're a shortboarder and a longboarder appears from nowhere, having caught a wave further outside), kick out.
2. Do say hello to people in the line-up. This is simple courtesy, especially if you're at an unfamiliar break. There is just no need for the deathly stare I got the other day when sitting on my board at my local break. A surfer whom I've seen from time to time came paddling past, I looked at him and said "Hi, nice day." Instead of returning this greeting he gave me a "You are scum" look. In my experience, good surfers, surfing their local break, are never like this; their actions speak louder in the water than anything else and, as such, they're chilled and at ease with their world. But wannabes who've forgotten their status seem to have a tendency to let themselves down with a strange blend of pseudo-localism and kook-infused arrogance. This same individual continued his bizarre stare later in the car park, and for a second I contemplated walking over and remonstrating in my own inimitable fashion. But these days I am a pacific man and so decided instead to snake him as much as possible next time I saw him in the line-up.
3. Do not snake other surfers. Snaking occurs when you deliberately paddle inside another surfer who has priority. It should never be done and may the Lord strike me down if I ever snake Mr Evil Stare.
4. Do, when paddling out, head for the white water and take the hit when another surfer is up and riding. The temptation is to paddle like hell for the shoulder but only do this if you're got time. Paddling towards a surfer who is already on a wave is dangerous for both of you, but especially you. Either duck-dive the white water or, if you have to, head for the shore.
5. Do hang on to your board. This is the classic learners' error but it's not a good thing. A board left to its own devices can do a lot of damage. If you are going to let go of it, say when caught inside and about to be severely spanked, look and see if anyone is near you before ditching it and swimming for the bottom.
6. Do ask the lifeguards about the prevailing conditions. If you're new to surfing it pays to ask before you paddle out. Even if you've been in the water a fair bit there's no harm in asking uncool questions that might save your life.
7. Don't be afraid to ask stupid questions. Surf shops can be intimidating places but these days the people in them want to help you. That means that they want you to buy the right equipment. The other day I watched as two aspirant surfers took to a ludicrously blown out and large sea clutching boards that were no longer than 6ft. Neither was capable of even lying on them properly, let alone anything else. I doubt they enjoyed the experience but if they'd returned on a more suitable day, with (much) longer boards, they'd have been a lot happier.
8. Do remember that surfing is about being stoked and having fun. Forget all the talk about spirituality (or maybe save it for later...) - that's what its raison d'etre is. It'll be frustrating sometimes, embarrassing too (eg: every time I paddle out anywhere near Sandy Bleakley, Sam's wife. Why oh why is every bungled take-off saved for these moments?), but first and foremost surfing is about experiencing what Captain Cook described as "the most supreme pleasure." He may have been wrong about a few things but the old sea-dog was bang on the money with that.
Remembering this last rule can help on those occasions when Mr Evil Stare turns up. Just ask yourself: how much fun is he having? Is he stoked? Somehow, it seems highly unlikely.
