Earlier this evening I surfed Spot G for a couple of hours. It was waist-to-chest high on the sets, balmy, glassy, still and sun-kissed. The sea was crystal clear, there were scores of basking sharks in the bay and only a few people in the line-up. For about an hour or so, I shared a left-hand peak with a lady I know only as Dr Sarah. It was bliss. After a good session at Sennen last night too, I thanked my lucky stars to live in West Penwith, and thanked them again to be able to surf.
It was so good to be in the water tonight that I almost felt sane again. But the Patient lurks...
Good on you Alex hold on to this one!
Posted by: carpet | June 02, 2009 at 08:43 AM