A funny thing happened at La Santa - I rode a couple of waves...

What a day! I rode a couple of waves again, for the first time in seven months. The neck is fine and I lived to tell the tale. Here's the lowdown:

At 9.20 this morning Karen and I left our villa to pick up Harry and Elliot, who'd crashed the night at Stayecochic. Tila and Michele, who run Stayecochic (which has a nice blog, too, by their partner Heidi), have a couple of lads (Josh and Jerome) who are the same age as our boys, and they've all been getting on like a house on fire. They hung out last night and were up and ready for some surf today, and soon enough a convoy had set off for La Santa. This fabled right-hander will need no introduction to seasoned surfers, and it was a sight for sore eyes when we arrived. Reeling walls of turquoise were rushing along the reef, with a medium-sized crowd of locals already on it. It was comfortably head high and, on the main peak, probably double overhead. However, Harry, Josh and Scott eschewed La Santa, instead paddling across to the fairly heavy-looking wave opposite - The Slab. This left me to...

Stare at wave after wave after wave.

It was the first time I'd been near quality surf for seven months, and it was painful. Initially, I was stoked, for the boys and to be watching some fine surfing at a world class break, but slowly but surely the angst mounted. As one does in such situations - nearly five months after anterior cervical discectomy and fusion - I decided that if I couldn't risk surfing, swimming out to the line-up would surely be OK. So I did. Not all the way to the main La Santa peak, but to the line of reef which demarks the first set of decent inside rights. If truth be told the neck gave me a bit of grief towards the end of this exploit. However, it put Lanzarote localism in perspective. I'd heard a lot about this but didn't see any evidence of it, and in fact one Spanish surfer paddled over to ask if I was OK (I guess not too many people swim at La Santa). I didn't get his name but he ripped - and was a nice bloke, too.

Back on dry land, with a couple of cuts on my legs from being bashed against the rocks on the swim in, I felt happy. But then I watched yet more surfing... And the angst began again.

Fortunately, Dennis Smith, of Centrepoint Surf Lanzarote, was on hand. He'd been running a surf school for kids at the very mellow first reef at La Santa. Dennis could see what was on my mind and offered me his longboard. I demurred. Surfing had to wait a while longer, I couldn't risk it, the neck was giving me twinges from the swim etc etc. "OK mate," said Dennis, "do whatever you feel's best. But the board's yours if you want it."

Naturally, I decided that going for a paddle would do me no harm, so off I went. I didn't go anywhere near the serious La Santa waves but headed over to where some teenagers were surfing - the very mellow first reef. En route, a 3ft set came along and I was caught inside. It wasn't heavy but with a metal cage in my neck very small waves assume very large dimensions. But I was fine. So then...

I paddled, caught a wave, and jumped to my feet.

Then I did the same thing again.

Two short rides, no moves, just a bit of trimming.

The result?

Totally stoked.

Thanks, Dennis, for the board (which I now have for the rest of the stay). I don't plan on surfing more than maybe half an hour or so each day - I can feel a fair few twinges, now, in that damned neck - but I'll be out there. In the sea, surfing, with my lad Harry again.

If that's not a result, nothing is. Aloha!

Comments

[Sarah Astley]

Brill.! Hope you all have a fab. time.

[Neelu]

I'm not sure what to say. I'm caught somewhere between saying 'congratulations' and 'be careful', so I decided to say both:)

Neelu

[Graham Shephard]

Outstanding.

Like Neelu, Congratulations BUT be careful.

G

[LC]

Stoked to hear you got back on a board! Enjoy the rest of your trip.

[Heidi Wigmore]

Likewise Congratulations came to mind yesterday when I saw you Alex, but BE careful was more on my mind.

Other than a cut knee which you got from swimming..you looked on good form earlier, if not a little sun kissed! I might have known Dennis would set you up for the rest of the week too

H

[Neil Watson]

Great news Alex, you must be stoked to be back on board. As for "angst", it can mean a sense of anxiety or remorse. If it tempts you further to the main peak at La Santa, you'll know the remorse bit for sure. DON'T DO IT!

[Andy Cox]

Good on you Alex

[allie]

I hate to say I told you so but " I TOLD YOU SO"

[Lucy]

I'm with Neelu...........hope you have a great holiday, you may even get lucky like me in Antigua & get forced to enjoy it a little longer than you thought!!! Lx & the crew

[Richard]

Alex, I really can't condone this kind of behaviour. I suggest you pack up and go home and I will fly over and finish the job for you. How's that sound? I'm all heart, me.

Seriously, great to hear you're surfing again, but do take care. And how can I score some work like that...?

[jonty]

great to hear it Alex (or axle?????) take care. jonty

[TrishaGATES20]

That's great that we can take the www.lowest-rate-loans.com moreover, it opens new possibilities.

[David]

Great Alex! Small steps are what it takes...

[JR]

totally stoked for you! take it easy though! :-)

[Tom]

Hadn't checked your blog in a while. Great to hear your back in the water. Good luck with it - take it easy!

[nike shox]

. They hung out last night and were up and ready for some surf today, and soon enough a convoy had set off for La Santa. This fabled right-hander will need no introduction to seasoned surfers, and it was a sight for sore eyes when we arrived.

[Shox NZ]

Fortunately, although it has not been due to pay it, but he was still on the road...

[Nike Shox]

Your article looks good, I like bits and pieces of daily life, like a movie.