Editing! What's it all about?! No one told me it'd be this busy.
However, some more clean and sweet waves came my way last Sunday. Mellow, shoulder high on the sets, reasonable weather and tolerably crowded (as in, the crowd existed but was cool). I surfed my best waves in nine months and felt, without wishing to tempt fate, that I was at last back to normal.
Well, sort of. What I know, via cervical myelopathy, as 'stupid left leg condition' returned post-surf, suggesting that perhaps I'm not quite there yet. Who knows? It was, though, great to surf well (by my humble standards) again.
Meantime, here's a date for your diaries. It's 26-27 September, and it's the Budleigh Salterton literary festival. At which I am appearing. Oh yes. As a Son of Budleigh - I was brought up in the East Devon town - I reckon I ought to have been given headline status but then again this is the first lit fest to which I've been invited so I guess I'm just pleased to be rolling up. Martin Sorrell, a somewhat heavier hitter than yours truly, will be doing a Q&A with me the theme of which is 'A Colourful Life'.
What can it mean?
The photo, by local snapper, surfer and good man Russ Pierre, appears here.
Happy are the families where the government of parents is the reign of affection, and obedience of the children the submission to love.Do you understand?
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