From the ridiculous to the sublime. Saturday saw the culmination of four diastrous surfs, in all of which residual neck op problems made it very difficult simply to pop up. Yesterday evening, at Sennen Cove, I had one of my most enjoyable sessions ever.
In the company of Mick and Allie, Amanda Smart, Simon from St Buryan and a couple of non-locals - in other words, it was a miraculously uncrowded line-up - I had some beautiful rides served up by a perfect A-frame roughly opposite Black Hut. The sets were about head high and despite an extremely sketchy take-off and a wobbly left leg once up and riding I somehow had a series of glorious waves. It was bliss, pure, unadulterated bliss, and I am beyond stoked to think that although this left leg/neck combo will continue to cause problems, there is still a surfing future for me.
Without surfing, I feel lost. With it, life is right again.
