Last Friday I had what could be categorised as the quintessential British surf.
It took place at a mellow break in the far west known as Danger Bay. The sets were about 4ft, and I was in the water with Greg Martin, the former Mr P Pilot who, for a while now, has been at the helm of Wavelength.
D-Bay being a hectic, challenging and potentially deadly spot, I borrowed The Bilbo Beast from Greg. This venerable 10ft pop out from days of yore was just the job. I had plenty of nice, smooth rides, as did Greg on his 9"6'. Admittedly, stand-up barrels and ollies off the top were few and far between.
At times, it rained so hard, under such a black and unholy sky, that it felt as if we were surfing amid the apocalypse. It was cold, too. Afterwards, it felt surreal walking through the streets of PZ in the wintry darkness, boards under arm, to Greg's place.
Was this session typical of so many UK surfers' experiences? Nothing radical happened. The waves were as average as average can be, albeit clean and nicely lined up. It being the depths of winter, no one was around. Just the two of us, sharing the surf, enjoying a few rides, making a virtue of the cold.
Perhaps. And meanwhile, representing all our interests, are the boys from SAS. Check out the footage to see who's who.