I've mentioned Japan a bit recently, a theme which was started by Dan Watson's fascinating comments about surfing references in the fiction of Haruki Murakami. Another Japanese writer I've long admired is Yukio Mishima, many of whose works - for example, The Sailor Who Fell from Grace with the Sea, The Sound of Waves, Confessions of a Mask - contain some of the most beautiful, mesmerising and haunting words about the sea ever committed to paper. Japan is a fair old hike, but I've always wanted to go there and, thanks to this excellent piece on surfing near Tokyo from Richard Knobbs of Storm from the East, will have a fair idea of where to look for a wave if I ever make it. NB the awesome wave on the Mishima cover below.
Japan may not be top of your list for surfing destinations, but it has a thriving – and rapidly growing – surfing industry, together with WQS 6-star events and a host of domestic competitions. Situated in the Pacific Ocean and regularly blasted by typhoons (not to mention earthquakes), you can pretty much find waves the whole year round, from the crystal clear waters, tropical climate and white beaches of Okinawa to the frigid climes of Hokkaido.
If, like me, you’re based in or around Tokyo and you don’t fancy trekking four or five hours (each way) to catch some waves, your options may be slightly limited, but there are plenty to choose from. Chiba and Kanagawa prefectures offer the closest and most accessible options for people based in Tokyo: you could catch a train in the centre of Tokyo and be riding a wave not much over a couple of hours later. The trains are staggeringly punctual, relatively cheap and almost always incredibly clean, although they do get crowded and you may have problems getting a board over 7ft on one. Not to worry, as there are plenty of places to hire boards and wetsuits, especially in summer.
Shonan in Kanagawa prefecture has something of a ‘surf Mecca’ reputation and it does offer some very smooth, rideable waves which are perfect for beginner to intermediate surfers and longboarders, although they may lack the size and oomph needed for shortboarders. The downside is that, due to its popularity, the place gets absolutely packed in summer, you certainly wouldn’t want to swallow much of the water and the waves are very temperamental. Chiba, on the other hand, is a peninsula with literally hundreds of spots where you can surf. The area around Kujukuri is particularly popular as it has miles of coastline with pretty nice beaches and, consequently, plenty of sweet beach breaks – and a few reef breaks – to choose from. Some of the more popular spots in Chiba include Choshi, Katagai, Ichinomiya, Onjuku, Hebara, Kamogawa and Chitose, all of which offer reasonably consistent swell. Like all surf spots, Chiba can be prone to flatness and total mush, but it is surfable pretty much all year round and is best if you get there early. Crowding can be a problem, but you can nearly always find a spot and other surfers are generally polite. I have heard rumours of localism, but the only localism I have encountered is the locals asking me where I was from, lending me wax and pointing out rips and other dangers. Basically, as with any surf spot, be polite, show respect and you will get no trouble. Learning a little bit of the language will also go a long way towards getting welcomed.
Now, back to those typhoons… These massive storms whip themselves up in the Pacific and then, occasionally, smash things to bits on the mainland. They usually occur between May and October, peaking in August and September and, yes, they certainly bring waves. Despite what some surfers with mouths considerably bigger than their brains will tell you, it’s best to surf after the typhoon has passed, not during it. These storms leave some huge swells in their wakes, but to go out into the sea in 20ft mush with winds of up to 125mph is just plain daft. Typhoons cause hundreds of injuries and deaths in Japan every year and are not to be taken lightly.
Temperature-wise, the area around Tokyo has very hot and humid summers, so you will probably only need shorts for surfing in August, possibly springs suits from around May and up until late September. Winter gets pretty chilly, particularly in Northern Chiba in January and February, so you’ll probably need a 5mm full suit, boots and maybe gloves and a hood if you want to stay out for a long time.
One thing to bear in mind is that Japan is only slightly larger than the UK with a population approximately twice the size, which means that things get crowded everywhere. This is especially true in Tokyo and the surrounding areas; approximately 10% of the population of Japan lives in Tokyo alone. The result is that line-ups can also get unbelievably crowded in summer and there are many first-time surfers who may drop-in, get in the way, or hog the waves. A little bit of patience goes a long way – try to find a quieter spot away from the crowds or ask the lifeguards or locals for some advice. Remember, we were all beginners once. Japan offers some great places to surf with some of the friendliest surfers you’re likely to meet anywhere and, at the end of the day, the delights of Tokyo are still within reach.
Pictures courtesy of www.surfline.com. There's more on surfing in Japan at Surfline's page here.
