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April 24, 2009



I have never known anyone give himself such a hard time as you, Alex. Same as ever. Whaddaya want, a WCT wild card?! Relax and enjoy the surf man! get a longboard, ride bellyboard, keep going with the shortboard whatever. Just chill out! Surfing isn't Exmouth in the old days mate (I mean Sam's and the Strand - remember...)

Enjoyed Mark's piece, by the way. Who is he and where's from?

Lewis (from the Devon days)


Alex we all have shite days, weeks sometimes.
Down here we are getting surf so infrequently now I have to spend the first 20 minutes trying to remember how to surf.

It took me two or three years of frustration to remember that surfing is fun ( or supposed to be)I still have a short board and if i am honest I rarely use it now...

As Lewis says 'chill out,' even three waves in a session are three more than if you had stayed in the car park.

Make it easy on yourself go back to the Jonty board or buy a wide board (Magic Carpet style) Ignore what people say about them you are only ever on one rail at any time so it is academic how wide they are and when they go onto the flat they plane at a hell of a speed.You may find that rather than length you need lateral stability in the early part of your ride,,(ie stumbling upright!!)...Try one...

But what ever you do stay away from "Cowards Corner....!"

As an Aussie mate famously said....**** all this short board ****, it's all down to standing up time mate....

Mark Tyers

When I'm not working or socialising, I'm an East coast surfer (currently in the North East but use to surf in Norfolk) and amateur surf writer

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