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June 06, 2010


Russ Pierre

0yself and Rich emerson at Surf Action have just taken a bunch of Royal Marine amputees surfing at Polzeath. They may never be pro surfers but the determination and perserverance was humbling. You may not be surfing soon, but if those brave lads taught me anything is that anything is possible and that includes surfing with a dodgy neck my friend. Maybe not now but don't give up because a friends says so.


i whole heartedly agree with Russ on this one. Never say never and all that . Take your time, build your strength in your back and neck with something less radical like yoga or pilates . Then when everythings feeling strong, work on your cofidence. THeres no better feeling than that you get when your paddling out and you feel so strong in both body and mind, when i started to box i felt ( comparitively) realy fit and strong and those paddle outs were the best and most fulfilling I've had. Even after a 3 hr yoga marathon I've been totaly totaled but on that paddle out my mind and body have been so clear and full of my own inner strength that nothing can beat it. God i sound like a total hippy, but it's true. Take it slow, build up to it and , hard for you i know, do something NON COMPETATIVE just for the sake of building your strength up again, you need this to protect your back and neck, trust me. I'm a papier mache artist. Besides we've not been in the water together yet so i'm still waitin to cheer you on that wave...


Noooo Alex. I have been in the water once in two years due to shoulder surgery that went horribly wrong. Thinking (or in hindsight, hoping) I was fit to surf after the first shoulder op, I paddled out and got battered. I couldn't paddle properly due to the restricted movement in the shoulder and all in all it was a scary experience that I would rather not repeat.

I have now had the second op, but agree totally with what the guys have said above. If you are strong enough physically, you will be strong enough mentally. I will not paddle out again now until I'm 100% certain I will enjoy it and be fit enough to do so. It sounds to me that your neck is just not ready for it yet.

Ok, so you can write, hence the reason I continue to read your blog and have done so going on four years now. But if you don't surf, where does your inspiration come from?

Hoping you don't lose the stoke sir,


Time and patience will see you through Alex. Maybe the new job is some form of Karmatic ! lay-by that will allow you one and to develop the other (especially dealing with submitted prose and text)

Oh yes, welcome back.

Lovely to see that even up Mont Blanc the yoof of today are never far from their phones....


Very difficult I would think. Can you put the surfing on hold for the moment and concentrate on your writing - which you will have to do anyway? And maybe come back to the surfing next year?


Well, I'm just glad you are feeling well enough to get out there and give surfing a go! Congrats! Now, the decision making on what to do from here on out is up to you. Just follow your gut -- it's usually right. It has more nerves than your brain ... :-) ~Kara


Hi Alex, just come across your blog, loved the book. I've been out of the water for nearly three years out of the last six.Take it easy, your body will recover and your fitness will return if you give it time. I found it really hard watching perfect 6ft swell in Tenerife two years ago and being unable to get on a board, but patience paid off for me and it will do for you, I'm sure.

Sand Sock Girl

The waves would gonna miss you for sure. But i'm happy in a way coz you're always here updating your blog. I really enjoy reading your posts!

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