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June 28, 2010



Yep, jobs are crap. Although yours sounds better than the long-term contract I'm doing at the moment. Still, I suppose the family has to eat somehow.

Great to hear you're surfing again! Hopefully I'll find the time to go again one of these days.


I've never surfed (anywhere other than the internet) so maybe I don't understand but here's my tuppence worth anyway. I think if your work means for the time being you don't have lots of time to surf then that's not such a big deal. What is a big deal is the fact that at least now you know you can do it when previously you weren't sure.


Pete - Shore

the surf / work balance is a toughy, seems to be getting harder and harder to just be able to leave work at the office and go surfing. Nothing worse than being called by a client about a deadline as your halfway into a 5/3 !!

great post


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We shared a similar session one evening last summer, when no one else was out, the surf was clean and the baskers were cruising. And here I was, surfing again at one of the best spots in Cornwall, each wave better than the last. My take off has suffered - it's on the slow side, to say the least - and only by the fourth wave or so did I remember that cutting back is a useful thing to do, asdf but it was really happening: I was back, properly enjoying the sweet sensation of riding waves, one that I feared would never come my way again.

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